Very cool car indeed
I do love those barn finds!
You can see in some of my photos, the various stages of auto body repair. Here you can see as well the difference between media blasting and grinding paint off. I always try to have everything blasted for a few reasons. One, its less damaging to the panel. No grind marks that need to be filled and the metal is all there when done. The other big reason is the heat generated by grinding paint off. It may not seem like much but when you block the car out, you will swear that the body was straighter before you started the restoration! Just the slightest head will warp a panel. Quick proof of this would be buying a 5 dollar frying pan, and then turn your stove on. Give it a few minutes for it to heat up and the pan is warped and doesn’t sit flat anymore.
Someday, we can all hope these vehicles will be back on the road in their original glory! As for those guys….looks like they have a lot of fun work cut out for them! I think I could live in that shop.
I had a show that I had to be at Thursday and Friday, showing off some of our products. I have an inflatable paint refinishing booth that does pretty well at keeping dust and such out of my paint jobs. This is a hood that I was told to get a little creative with as its going to be hanging up for display.
I started out with a lime green hood. Not sure if this was Honda hood or what but something of that nature. Had quite a few dings and dents that I filled using the Rage Extreme body filler. Once I fixed everything and got it sanded down with 320 grit paper I used some speed primer. I loved using this stuff though its quite expensive. I was able to prime the hood and start blocking within 20 minutes with zero bake cycle. Continue reading Marbleized, candied, crushed crystal painted hood 5/1/14
Today I wanted to talk about repairing sheet metal and then finishing off with body filler. Lets do what a lot of car auto body and restoration shops do and that’s remove the word FILLER. We in the industry refer to it as body repair material. We never want to FILL a damaged panel as it can come back to bite you in the end.
First off, if you have followed my posts we talked about starting off the car body restoration by sand blasting the car to bare metal. After that I recommended that you painted the entire surface with a self etching primer or a DTM (direct to metal) primer. If not, you can still follow this process even if you have not media blasted the car!
Continue reading Repairing minor dings and dents
There are many different and confusing types of primers out there. Im hoping with this, you will be able to determine the correct products to use for your restoration project.
What is the difference between 1k and 2k products? 1k primers and other refinishing products are basically non chemically hardened products. These come in aerosol cans, sprayable mixes and even in brush on applications. I typically shy people away from using 1k products because of the non chemically hardened process. And by that I mean that basically this stuff is not going to hold up to laquer thinner, acetone, reducer, or other chemicals. They are not as stable and will break down. You can take a rag soaked with laquer thinner and set it on the panel. If you are using a 1k product, it will eat through the product.
Continue reading Automotive primers and when and where to use them
Starting a classic car restoration is all about preparation and planning. Unless you are the original owner you just don’t know what has been done to the car. Whenever I have started out a repair, I tend to start with the basics. Continue reading Starting your classic restoration – Getting down to the bare metal